Humanity is at a crossroads. As we race to reverse the impact of our reliance on petroleum and its products, we are caught up in a pandemic that relies on single-use plastics and masks to keep us safe. Previously, in an effort to curb plastic pollution in our oceans, governments banned single use straws after a video of a plastic straw stuck in the nose of a turtle went viral. Similarly, now, there is a push to ban glitter, essentially a microplastic that does not breakdown long after its shine is gone. Whether this will do anything to save our oceans is up for debate, however it does draw parallels with fashion during a pandemic. Fashion, like glitter, is essentially shiny. It serves no purpose other than to be pleasing to the eye and make money for its vendor. So as oceans become polluted by plastics and a pandemic brings the world to a halt with only things deemed as essential by governments allowed to continue operating, many students and designers in the fashion industry begin to question the frivolity in their craft.
Rick Owens understands the purpose of fashion during this pandemic. In his Spring 2021 Ready to Wear collection, Owens offers us a sanctum. Titled Phlegethon, the name of one of the five infernal rivers of the underworld in Greek mythology, the socially distanced presentation displayed garments worn by models that exuded an almost delicate savagery against clandestine backdrop of a shuttered casino piazza. The first look featured a softly draped sheer grey toned asymmetrical rib knit with hood that clung to the model against a black strapless crop top and high cut cutoffs paired with tall platform boots the designer dubbed “waders”. A reference perhaps to the river of this collection’s namesake; Phlegethon.
Notably this collection features colour, dashes of pinks, reds and yellow sprinkled through, Owens himself described the collection as “grim gaiety”, the colours adding a brief moment of relief between the intensity of the tall leather boots and structured silhouettes. Sequinned long vests with bold shoulder lines and stiff-looking cutoffs with white pocket bags hanging out offered themselves as fun details within an otherwise severe collection. The frequent juxtaposition of soft delicately draped fabric against harsh lines and stiff leather highlights how Owens sees fashion as a practice with deliberate purpose and messaging with what is chosen to be displayed; silently impacting the psyche of the masses. The constant in this collection were masks and tall boots, highlighting the importance of practicality in a world where illness is airborne and currently without a cure. Much like the slow banning of plastics, bags, straws, glitter; this collection tells the tale of humanity trying to find frivolity in their grim reality.
My take on this collection? According to Owens, humanity is on a boat sailing down the boiling river of blood on our way to Hades; and looking damn sexy on our way there.
View the collection below or watch it here
