“My collection takes inspiration from the film Charlie and the Chocolate Factory. It’s like a golden ticket, a visual experience that can take us all back to our fondest childhood memories.” said Ian Chang, the new upcoming luxury streetwear designer. Inspired by the classical tailoring and the new oversized streetwear style embellished with key elements of sportswear. Ian managed to capture the essence of the story and turn it into an avant-garde, luxurious collection dealing with a multitude of themes.
We had the pleasure to talk to Ian about his collection. Read on more to discover his inspirations and creative process.
What was the moment that got you interested in fashion
Back in year 12, I had the opportunity to attend a fashion workshop. I was able to witness the process from start to finish. I was truly fascinated. I got to learn design, pattern making, draping, and sewing. From then on, I decided and was dedicated to getting into fashion.
You attended the Istituto Marangoni in London. What has this experience taught you as a designer?
I really appreciate the years I studied at Istituto Marangoni London. I was able to find and develop my personal aesthetic in design as well as gain many technical skills to help me bring my visions to life. I was also given a chance to work with really helpful tutors who supported me and guided my work through when reviewing the design process. Overall, I learnt to be the best version of myself, to always follow my heart, and to never give up.
Your graduation collection draws inspiration from the iconic film Charlie and the Chocolate Factory Was there a specific reason for this choice ?
As a kid, I loved sweets and chocolate, so Charlie and the Chocolate Factory were like a dream come true for me. I was inspired by Violet Bearugarde’s inflation scene. I care greatly about body positivity and the oversized aesthetic, so I wanted to somehow recreate this scene through my collection. This story inspired me from different perspectives where rejuvenation and childhood memories were some of the main themes. The Golden Ticket is a collection which I am most satisfied with. It’s a visual experience that can take us all back to our fondest childhood memories. The interpretation of the collection also elaborates that humans always seek to be the best versions of themselves by exaggerating. The gradual XXXXXXL puffer jacket highlighted the inflatable process, which reminds us not to get blinded by greediness and forget how everything begins.
In this collection, you experimented a lot with volume and exaggerated silhouettes. Walk us through these key elements and how you interpreted them.
During the development process, I researched in depth on how to amend regular silhouettes and experimented with voluminous cocoon shapes, referencing sportswear and streetwear staples like the bomber, parka and puffer, pushing their shape and fabrication to the extremes. From look 1 up to look 6, I was experimenting with how to gradually design an oversized collection to finish it off with the most extravagant super oversized shape. I managed to achieve a genderless luxury streetwear collection, with elevated fabrics and functional details.
How does your creative process work? And which part of it do you enjoy the most?
My creative process starts by experimenting with volumes and building the ideal oversize block, then it comes to more and never-ending sewing with wadding. Making XLLLLLL garments was what I enjoyed the most.
Your collection explores genderless sportswear with some elements of tailoring. How did you establish a link between these two very different styles?
Ever since I took a course last year in Savile Row, I’ve been drawn to British tailoring; it’s very nostalgic for me. I was amazed by the bespoke tailored jacket and how suits fit different body shapes. Combining the fact that I’m a huge streetwear lover and very much into sportswear details, I was able to create a genderless luxury sportswear aesthetic. It’s all very personal to me. Growing up in Hong Kong, where streetwear is very prominent, then moving on to London and being exposed to British heritage design, my experience gave birth to this juxtaposition of themes
Everything looks incredible. What’s your favorite look? Tell us how it’s made.
Look 6 is my favorite of all of them. It’s the most extravagant golden ticket jacket, which took two months to make. It’s super big and heavy. During the design process, I had to be very careful with the metallic gold fabric while sewing the wadding in it.
What was your biggest challenge when designing this collection?
My biggest challenge was the toile. I wasn’t able to get the cocoon shape as the side seams and curves weren’t round enough, so I kept amending the pattern over and over again. A lot of trial and error, but in the end, the gold elastic rib I added was what helped maintain the shape
You were chosen as one of the top ten finalists to showcase your collection at London Fashion Week in 2022. How did you find the experience?
I really enjoyed the experience and the exposure. I was able to debut my graduate collection at London Fashion Week and showcase the golden ticket. I will cherish this experience and use it as motivation to keep developing my skills and eventually launch my brand soon.
How do you see yourself in 5 years?
I see myself working for my brand and connecting the dots with different industries, including the metaverse fashion and art. I will build a better fashion community for everyone to get involved in and enjoy the process with me.
To discover more about Ian Chang checkout his Instagram or see his work here and here.
