At the young age of 24, Rio Onui is a new upcoming Japanese designer set to change the fashion scene and merge the Uraharajuku culture with advanced haute couture techniques to create new fashion silhouettes. While studying at the International Total Fashion College, he won the Tokyo New Designer Fashion Award as well as numerous other Grand Prix awards both in Japan and overseas. Now he is the chief designer for the brand D.Nart.Ampta.
Rio was kind enough to talk to us about his work, influences, and objectives; continue reading to learn more about this talented designer.
Tell us a little bit about yourself; where did you study, and how has that shaped the way you design and think about clothing?
I grew up exposed to Uraharajuku culture, which is a Japanese street culture. That inspired me to pursue fashion after high school. I integrated a 3-year fashion course where I became very interested in haute couture; this shaped my current style and helped create a sense of incongruity in the designs I create, which makes them unique.
Your designs feature meticulously designed draping and pleats and a lot of marble patterns in the textiles. What inspired this collection?
This collection, titled “POOLS,” is aimed at releasing the stagnation of the world that has become closed due to COVID-19 and the suffering of oneself during this period. The graphic marble pattern expresses how the emotions that have accumulated inside the body leak out and into the world. Many of my works are inspired by original landscapes, so the pleats express this scenery as well as the feelings we went through. I used haute couture techniques, along with three-dimensional cutting to create a silhouette imitating the human body.
What really got you interested in haute couture?
When I was a student, I had the opportunity to visit Dior’s pret-a-porter atelier and Chanel’s embroidery studio in Paris. I felt that it was the craft that inherited the whole history of fashion and continued to soak up the present as we experienced it. It’s not just a glittering and gorgeous world, the meticulous and steady work and the techniques woven by the craftsmen created a warmth that will never disappear no matter how civilization develops. It truly had a great influence on me.
How would you describe your practice?
I wish for my practice to be a ray of light for the next generation.
What do you mean by that?
I believe that there is an environment that makes it difficult for young designers to be active due to many reasons, such as education and background.
There are many students who want to become designers but do not know what to do or where to start. D.Nart.Ampta is actively trying to start a community of new fashion enthusiasts.
This time, we created a collection with the theme of releasing stagnation. Mostly because we live in a world where diversity is valued, we connect people and break stereotypes.
I have finally seen some hope since the time when COVID-19 was rampant and everything was closed. I specifically used this metaphor because I see fashion as a ray of light for the new generation. And I hope that we will become a brand that gives strong hope for a better future.
What does fashion mean to you?
I consider fashion to be a light that connects the past and the future; fashion is the language I use to express myself and showcase my true colors.
What advice can you give to up-and-coming designers?
I encourage young designers to try to discover themselves and their identity. I believe that the more you understand yourself, the less confusion you will have, and as a result, your designs will shine brighter.
How can young designers understand themselves better?
It is absolutely necessary to follow your own roots. I feel that what you like and what you are good at are completely different things. What you like is not necessarily what you are good at. However, I think that when you mix the two, that’s when you find individuality.
Where do you see yourself in 5 years?
I see myself becoming a better designer. I hope to reach new levels of creativity with my brand and other businesses, and I’m sure that with the support of my dear collaborators, we will be able to achieve it.
Where are your stores located?
We currently only sell on the EC site; however, we regularly sell in pop-up stores across Japan. We are actively working towards selling our products overseas as well.
To see more of D.Nart.Ampta’s work visit their Instagram here or their website here.
