Zikun Zhu, a young designer from China, is creating waves with his compelling designs and clear vision. Melding the mediums of fashion, costume, and performance, Zhu’s work transcends the standard boundaries of style, embracing an amalgamation of social commentary and personal narrative. Melding the mediums of fashion, costume, and performance, Zhu’s work transcends the standard boundaries of style, embracing an amalgamation of social commentary and personal narrative.
Born and raised in China, Zhu’s journey into fashion was ignited by his fascination with sneaker culture and evolved through a deep dive into the hypebeast world. A chance encounter with Yohji Yamamoto’s edgy yet wearable designs pushed him to study the craft more meticulously. Reflecting on his relationship with fashion, Zhu describes it as “a couple married for a long time. I still love it, but not as aggressive and needy in the first years.”
“Art should be political, and so should fashion.”
In his work, Zhu addresses social issues, not with the intention of solving them, but instead to provoke thought and trigger conversations. His unique blend of design and artistry weaves a narrative in each garment. This narrative communicates his perspectives on society’s systems, always from a critical, observational standpoint.
In his latest collection, “DESKTOP,” Zhu uses fashion as a medium to illustrate the phenomenon of “involution”, an internal competition ingrained in Chinese society leading to overworking without additional reward. Drawing inspiration from his fear of this systemic issue, he uses humor to navigate the complexities. Zhu’s garments are filled with subtle, personal messages — playful rants and fictional narratives, each a small piece of the story he’s telling.
Despite focusing on Chinese society, Zhu deliberately eschews obvious Chinese elements in his designs. Instead, he chooses to communicate his story through an internationally recognizable language, believing that his narrative remains inherently Chinese due to his identity.
A vital part of Zhu’s process is the selection of everyday objects to recreate in fabric. Each object chosen for the “DESKTOP” collection ties into his narrative of work and its mechanization. His collaboration with accessory designer Yinglin Xu brought this vision to life, using leather to create the office accessories integral to Zhu’s theme.
Looking forward, Zhu plans to continue his work in the fashion industry, gaining practical experience to supplement his academic knowledge. He’s currently working as an Atelier Assistant for BOTTER and contemplating a Ph.D.
His next exploration? Artificial Intelligence. Zhu believes that the advancement of AI will inevitably influence society and the fashion industry. He’s excited and apprehensive about the potential challenges and changes AI will bring, from ethical issues to labor replacement.
But for this talented designer, the future is a canvas waiting to be painted. Through his designs, Zhu aims to continue giving voice to contemporary issues and sharing narratives that reflect the zeitgeist. His commitment to social commentary and personal narrative showcases the power of fashion to transcend aesthetic appeal and venture into the realm of storytelling.
Fashion isn’t merely an art form to Zhu; it’s a means of communication, a tool for societal dialogue, and a canvas for his own journey. In his own words, “Find the right balance for you,” Zhu continues to bridge the gap between the world of fashion and the broader social narrative, promising a future of engaging and thought-provoking designs. His fashion philosophy reinforces the belief that to wear a garment is not just to embrace a look, but to take part in a wider conversation.
To see more of Zhu’s work visit their Instagram here or website here.
