Zihao Zhou’s latest menswear collection, a culmination of his unique blend of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary aesthetics, explores the intersection of cosmic inspiration and sartorial innovation. Guided by the mesmerizing patterns of spiral galaxies and the color techniques of Caravaggio, Zihao’s collection unveils a harmonious blend of structural segmentation and vibrant hues, pushing the boundaries of menswear design.
Drawing inspiration from the ever-changing forms of galaxies, Zihao Zhou delves into the interplay between external influences and internal dynamics. “Nothing is special, but something is special,” Zihao states, embodying the paradox that guides his work. He finds extraordinary beauty in the ordinary, exploring the connections between the macro and the micro, revealing the hidden wonders of the world, and inspiring others to see the magic in the mundane.
Guided by the mesmerizing spiral arms found within cosmic entities, Zihao fuses their intricate patterns with the structural elements of garments. “The arc trajectory of a spiral arm resembles the human silhouette when viewed from above,” he explains. By experimenting with applying these spiral trajectories to the human body, Zihao integrates these irregular arcs into the garment’s silhouette or structure, creating a clean garment silhouette that maintains both conceptual depth and wearable elegance.
Zihao Zhou’s fascination with Caravaggio’s nuanced approach to color purity is evident in his strategic application of color to delineate garment divisions and pocket placements. “Caravaggio avoided highly saturated colors, keeping them within a moderate range to create a psychological impression of brightness rather than overwhelming saturation,” Zihao notes. By controlling the saturation of colors, Zihao applies Caravaggio’s color theory to the entire outfit, with colors transitioning from dark to light, creating a visual focus within the limited space defined by the colors.
This technique is not only a homage to the masterful painter but also a means to harmonize the celestial and sartorial with effortless elegance. The varied compositions and chemical makeup of each planet in the universe make it colorful, and Zihao translates this cosmic palette into his designs, coordinating the illusion of space with the pictorial space created by perspective and foreshortening.
The spiral arm arc pattern cutting method, central to Zihao’s collection, exemplifies his dedication to innovative menswear detailing. Zihao’s understanding of menswear design leans more towards structure and segmentation. “A few years ago, I was captivated by Kiko Kostadinov’s work, which set the foundation for my graduate research with the spiral segmentation theme becoming a year-long research topic,” Zihao recalls. Integrating a dividing line into clothing is straightforward, but ensuring it serves the garment’s structure requires in-depth study. This meticulous approach ensures that the structural lines are not merely decorative but functional and integral to the garment’s design.
Zihao Zhou’s collection also explores the trajectory of the spiral arm to achieve a series of collaborations between shoe and jewelry design. This cross-disciplinary project involved contributions from various experts, each bringing their unique expertise to the table. CONP handled the production of the shoe collection, while Yuxian Zhang assisted with the jewelry collection.
For footwear, the initial idea was to create a casual shoe with an upper made of five layers of different colors or materials. However, the design had to be modified due to production challenges. The Square Toe Derby and Gurkha Military Sandals are standout pieces, featuring spiral arm curves and the project’s theme colors. Similarly, the jewelry pieces, made of silver and natural crystals, enhance the collection’s aesthetic appeal.
Zihao Zhou’s journey from his undergraduate showcase in Beijing to launching Illogic in London reflects his growth and evolution as a designer. His experience at Purlicue, a brand centered around the street youth community, and Levi’s, with its durable denim construction, significantly influenced his design philosophy.
“Purlicue taught me more than my undergraduate studies, constantly inspiring me with fresh ideas for clothing,” Zihao shares. “My experience at Levi’s provided a new perspective on denim fabric, leading to the choice of denim for Illogic’s first capsule collection.” This rebellious spirit and innovative approach define Illogic, a brand that deviates from traditional models, focusing on upcycled items and innovative presentations.
Illogic embodies the rebellious spirit Zihao felt was missing during his growth. “It’s the most exciting project I’ve undertaken,” he asserts. The first denim capsule collection, featuring upcycled items like the Hembag, exemplifies Illogic’s focus on meaningful design over traditional constraints.
Zihao Zhou envisions Illogic as a brand that produces designs that are not only aesthetically pleasing and functional but also meaningful. By breaking new ground and challenging conventional norms, Illogic aims to carve a unique mark in the fashion industry, reflecting Zihao’s journey, philosophy, and innovative spirit.
Launched in 2024, Illogic represents the culmination of Zihao Zhou’s experiences and vision. With a blend of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary aesthetics, Illogic aims to push the boundaries of menswear design, harmonizing the celestial and the sartorial. As the brand continues to grow, Zihao’s dedication to innovation and meaningful design will undoubtedly lead to exciting new ventures in the fashion industry.
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