Klara Schmidt is a designer, a provocateur, and an activist. Having studied fashion design in Munich, London, and now Berlin, she blends history, politics, and playfulness into her work. Her debut collection, Grotesk und unnuetzlich (Grotesque and Useless), is not just about clothing—it’s a powerful critique of rising populism and the absurdity of military power in an era of nuclear weapons.
At the heart of Schmidt’s collection is a striking and almost comical image: Napoleon in a jogging suit. This unexpected reimagination highlights the dangers of historical ignorance, showing how humanity’s failure to learn from the past puts us at risk of self-destruction. Inspired by her rural Bavarian roots and the alarming resurgence of right-wing ideologies in Germany, Schmidt channels her frustrations into fashion, using exaggerated silhouettes and playful details to expose the contradictions of military masculinity and political recklessness.
Schmidt’s collection is deeply rooted in a reimagining of the Napoleonic era in Germany and Austria. She takes elements of military uniforms and civilian clothing from that time, exaggerating and distorting them to create a sense of both authority and absurdity.
A key symbol in her work is the fish, drawn from the German fairy tale The Fisherman and His Wife. In the story, insatiable greed leads to downfall—an allegory Schmidt applies to populist leaders who crave power at any cost. By incorporating fish motifs into her designs, especially in the Fish Pantalon With Tail, she playfully critiques the fragile, exaggerated masculinity embedded in military aesthetics. The result is both humorous and unsettling, challenging viewers to rethink the relationship between power and insecurity.
Schmidt’s fabric choices are just as intentional as her concepts. She contrasts soft, cozy materials like muslin and jersey with more traditional Bavarian felt and stone-washed cupro—an ethical alternative to silk. This mix of textures creates a subtle yet powerful message: uniforms, once rigid symbols of power and control, can be reinterpreted as casual, even trivial. The contrast between historic military aesthetics and contemporary comfort challenges the way we perceive authority.
Her detailing reinforces this theme. Instead of traditional military embellishments, she uses shoelaces as posaments and handmade sofa edging as trimmings—unconventional, everyday objects repurposed to subvert the grandeur of military uniforms. The result is a collection that feels both ironic and deeply thought-provoking, questioning authority while embracing a sense of humor.
Schmidt’s creative perspective has been shaped by the contrasting places she has lived. Growing up in rural Bavaria, she often felt like an outsider, which fueled her rebellious spirit. Munich’s conservative fashion scene forced her to stand by her vision, while London’s fast-paced, concept-driven environment helped refine her ideas and connect her with like-minded creatives. In Berlin, she has found the freedom to experiment, create, and engage with political discourse through her work.
For Schmidt, fashion isn’t just about aesthetics—it’s about raising awareness, sparking dialogue, and challenging societal norms. She positions her work as a form of subversion, aiming to disrupt dominant narratives rather than simply protest them. As right-wing populism gains traction in Germany and beyond, she remains steadfast in her critique of growing militarisation, expressing a clear stance against rearmament and an appeal for disarmament.
Grotesk und unnuetzlich is a call to action, proving that clothing can be more than just fabric—it can be a statement, a challenge, and a way to rewrite the narratives of history. At a time when history seems dangerously close to repeating itself, Schmidt’s designs serve as both a warning and an invitation—to look closer, to think deeper, and to never stop questioning the structures that shape our reality.
To see more of Klara’s work, visit her Instagram here: @klaourence
Credits:
Photography: @shahinhefter
Model: @liambrianrogers MA @tigers_mgmt
Hair and Make-up: @makeupbykimmona
Set Assistant: @emikaen