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The tokyo fashion week ss/27 diaries part one: days 1 & 2

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All images on this article appear as a courtesy of Japan Fashion Week Organization and Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo.

DAY 1: AUGUST 31ST, 2026

YOSHIOKUBO – Natural Born Nomads

The opening show for this edition of Tokyo Fashion Week was YOSHIOKUBO’s SS/27 collection Natural Born Nomads, inspired by an alternative universe where the designer reimagines what a nomadic tribe would look like in today’s world. All the outfits were utilitarian and halfway between sportswear and elevated RTW, with a predominance of monochrome sets in black, olive green and raw white. This time, textile experimentation was expressed through digital camo prints, waterproof clear fabrics and ribbon details that added a touch of softness to an otherwise tough and fearless presentation.

SEIVSON – Boudoir

In a rather intimate setting at what used to be the residence of quite a few Japanese Prime Ministers, and with less than 40 people in attendance, the brand directed by Tzu Chin Shen presented Boudoir, a collection that left a feeling of eerie beauty in the air as it finished. The color palette consisted of black, white, ballet slippers pink and peachy dark pink, and the details were intricate and intriguing: part prima ballerina, part goth seductress, part sad teenager. Seivson played with proportions by presenting deconstructed corsets and architectural pieces that looked like wearable origami, and the rework of the quintessential Y2K Juicy Couture velvet tracksuits gave a marketable dimension to a highly artistic collection.

WHITENOOK – Fusion

Elmo Su’s brand went straight to the point with a clearly defined collection of linen, cotton and denim smartly designed to be as commercial and contemporary as possible while keeping its own identity. The palette stayed within the classic range with black and white, denim blue (both light and dark) and medium brown, and the styling was quite smart as well, keeping everything easy to understand for the general public while adding a few notes of fashion pizzazz with details like male models wearing corsets. The collection as a whole felt cohesive, very wearable and of a high textile quality that makes it very attractive for global markets.

ENFÖLD – Wrapping Structure

The last presentation of the dat by Enföld took place in a rather minimalistic setting at a warehouse in Hamamatsucho. Very much in the vein of geometric deconstruction that Japanese fashion initially became famous for, Enföld offered an interesting balance of experimental pieces that gave the feeling of wearable furniture like table-skirts and dresses made of what seemed to be wicker, along with equally interesting but more mainstream pieces like plaid two-piece suits, shirts and skirts with blue and red geometric prints over pure white and directional oversized jackets. Dashes of the brightest possible shades like sunflower yellow, sky blue and neon pink completed a showcase where anything understated or minimalistic was thrown out of the window in favor of extroverted, wearable art.

DAY 2 – SEPTEMBER 1ST, 2026

GLOBAL FASHION COLLECTIVE – SHINO, Shoshoni Hostler, Perry Jones

As part of Japan Fashion Week Organization’s efforts to make Tokyo Fashion Week a more international event, the Global Fashion Collective runway show put together brands from different regions and concepts to materialize the ideal of a world connected through fashion and creativity. Local brand SHINO presented Fragments of a Nameless World with a strong influence of Japanese V-Kei subculture (think glam rock on steroids) that took us on a journey of fantastic tribal characters.

Shoshoni Hustler offered a vision where her ethnic influences came together beautifully in a new expression of luxury through intricate beading mixed with leather and tassels in Nar Rew Ekar: From the Spawning Ground.

Perry Jones from Los Angeles went all out with the shiniest, most elaborate pieces reminiscing of cabaret divas in a collection that consisted of capes, gowns and two-pieced suits, all in silk and gauze and covered in thousands of hand-sewn crystals.

BENCH – Rhett Eala, Jaggy Glarino, Joey Samson

Three of the top Pinoy talents in fashion design joined forces at Bench’s Threads of Dreams, a collective show where each brand showcased a distinct Filipino sensibility with a global vision. An incredible showcase that made it absolutely obvious that the Philippines is one of the places to look for when it comes to craftsmanship in balance with culture and creativity.

Rhett Eala deconstructed elements of his family heirlooms and rebuilt them in a conversation with upcycled Japanese textiles for an avant-garde effect with South East Asian touches in Inherited Stories.

Jaggy Glarino elevated indigenous Philippine clothing with oversized hats, mix-and-match prints and solihiya weaving at Imin.

Last but not least, Joey Samson took different eras in Ang Pagniniig: Una Bulaqueña at O Sei San and using the attention to construction and layering he’s well known for he offered a stunning collection where elegant shapes and delicate fabrics were accentuated with traditional bows and prints and fun details like tiny clocks sewn to coats.

SUPPORT SURFACE – Ordinary Shift

One of the most commercially viable collections of this season, Support Surface offered a vision where contemporary women can be as romantic and delicate as they want without losing the ability to go through life in comfort and ease of movement. The color palette was diverse as it included different hues of green, orange, yellow and blue, but all in their muted versions, which made them more wearable than shocking bright shades. The layering of white gauze and lace over black dresses was simply beautiful, and styling the most directional pieces (tops with sheer roses) with simpler pants and skirts was a genius way to showcase how you don’t need to be a fully fledged avant garde fashionista to incorporate higher fashion into a daily life friendly look.

MITSURU OKAZAKI – A Strange Spectacle

The pillar of Mitsuru’s collection was the dichotomy of busy city life and the peace that can only be found in the depths of nature, exemplified by the stark difference between different blocks of the presentation. Shirts with classic collars sewn on the front in geometric patterns alongside pants with jacket lapels sewn on the sides in traditional hues were followed by pieces in more conventional cuts but rather experimental neon shades like lime yellow, with ribbons that once again added an unexpected yet very much welcome kawaii touch. The final piece was an exquisite black dress made out of panels that had a centimeter or so of space between them, looking like they floated over the model’s body. Mitsuru Okazaki was one of the most thought provoking designers of this Tokyo Fashion Week and will surely continue to catch the attention of fashion fans and professionals alike in future seasons.

MEG MIURA – Post New Wave

On the show notes delivered before her presentation at Hikarie, Meg Miura expressed that she wanted to offer a glimpse into her interpretation of what should come after the New Wave movement. For this she focused on long shapes, lots of layering with an emphasis on raincoats and bright reds and blues, as opposed to the darker aesthetics of the movement she drew inspiration from. Having male and female models walking down the runway using the same outfits styled for each gender was an exciting way of showcasing the brand’s versatility and commitment to creating pieces for as wide of an audience as possible.

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