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The Tokyo Fashion Week SS/27 Diaries Part 3: Days 5 & 6

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All images on this article, except for Khoki and Kidill x Hizume x Alpha Industries, appear as a courtesy of Japan Fashion Week Organization and Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo.

The images of the Khoki runway show appear as a courtesy of the brand.

The images of the Kidill x Hizume x Alpha Industries presentation were taken by Tomoyo Tsutsumi (@kayx9831 on Instagram)

DAY 5 – SEPTEMBER 4TH 2026

ANTHONY CALYDON

Stepping away from the traditional runway format, Anthony Calydon from France opted for a presentation at The Face, an art space in the über-cool neighborhood of Daikanyama. This collection was decidedly under the streetwear category but it felt like a softer expression of it: monochrome outfits and the absolute absence of logos made it more palatable for those outside of this sphere. For Anthony, wearability and comfort are non-negotiable: the emphasis on socks, beanies, gloves and very walkable footwear coexisted with hemming in contrasting colors (pale grey and neon green, sky blue and crimson red, black and hot pink). Anthony Calydon is one of those brands that has such a potent visual identity that you don’t need to have a logo screaming at your face to know it’s his work: just by looking at it you can tell it’s him. That’s the strongest sign of a creator who knows who he is and doesn’t compromise on his self expression.

WISHARAWISH – Salade de Fruits

Once again, the Thai designer graced the stage of Tokyo Fashion Week with his unique way of expressing South East Asian ideas of luxury and heritage. Instead of reiterating the stereotypes that fashion from tropical countries has to be colorful, this menswear collection stuck to a selection of greys with some turquoise and Cerulean blue as a primary palette, which in combination with monochrome prints in traditional patterns completed the concept of taking traditional motifs and reworking them in a practical, commercial way for today’s customers. Long, lights coats were styled with cargo shorts and short-shorts (according to this article, that’s a very much welcome sign of better economic times to come soon), and the inclusion of caps added a touch of streetwear cool points to luxurious printed silk shirts. The collection felt like it was in the exact sweet spot to be unique and unconventional, and wearable enough for mainstream audiences. Also, shoutout to the audience members who wore the most exquisite Chut Thai, you all looked stunning.

ANNA CHOI – Sculptural

This runway show presented only 8 looks: a handful of perfectly crafted couture gowns that focused on the right fit and textiles, following a classic approach to garment construction. The models walked one by one to their individual pedestals, and stood there to be admired as living, breathing statues (and they were), as they posed while donning dresses that were the result of a very complex construction process resulting in marble-like textures, crinolines reworked for contemporary sensibilities and an adequate balance between maxi and midi skirt lengths to cater to different tastes. Anna Choi reminded us, in the most literal way, that fashion is a form of art.

YUKIHERO PRO-WRESTLING

As a hardcore fan of wrestling (which, by the way, is huge in Japan), for Yukihiro Teshima having the chance of staging his runway show at Korakuen Hall, the nation’s temple of this sport, felt like an emotional homecoming moment. The collection was entirely inspired by this sport, with models holding championship belts, t-shirts printed with images of the most iconic Japanese pro wrestlers, boxing boots and clashing colors and prints that reminded the attention-grabbing capes worn by the legends of this sport. Some nods to punk rock were also spotted in the form of pin badges, biker jackets and Ramones t-shirts. The special appearances of boxers Naoko Fujioka and Yoko Gushiken and wrestlers Aja Kong and Togi Makabe (all of them legends in their own right) completed a very personal collection where Yukihiro put together all his passions and turned them into a cohesive fashion presentation meant for contemporary audiences.

ORIMI – Properly Dressed

This show was held at what was one of the, if not THE coolest venues of this seasons: Tokyo FM Hall. As its name aptly suggests, the focus of the pieces in this collection was on creating options for a contemporary audience that wants to look impeccable and updated at the same time. The mix of timeless (hats, discreet colors, checkered patterns and classic shirts) and modern elements (bomber jackets, military-inspired coats, deep v-neck cuts) created the right balance that creative director Kenta Orimi aimed at this season. A presentation that hit the sweet spot for what today’s gentlemen and gentlewomen want and need in their wardrobe.

KHOKI

Design as a part of daily life comes in the form of the house we inhabit, the utensils we cook and eat with, the toys we used to play with, and all of these elements together create what we call “home”. Based on this idea, Khoki presented a collection for women and men that took said elements from a house and turned them into wearable items. With an insane level of attention to detail, tights looked like resewn bedsheets, jackets looked like the tiles on a kitchen’s floor and the gloves to wash the dishes were turned into sophisticated velvet accessories. The stage mimicked a house that has seen generations of a family growing, adding a heartwarming touch to the presentation. An extensive use of patchwork, clashing hues and mix and match of textures like leather, wool and knits gave a distinctive personality to the collection that set itself apart from the generally minimalistic, monochromatic showcases that were among the biggest trends this season.

KIDILL x HIZUME x ALPHA INDUSTRIES

Although it wasn’t part of the official Tokyo Fashion Week schedule, Kidill’s presentation in collaboration with millinery brand Hizume and jacket specialists Alpha Industries got a sizable amount of attention due to its mix of art exhibition and fashion show, paying homage to the most goth and punk rock leaning aspects of Japanese youth subcultures. With the artwork of Trevor Brown hanging on the walls, the showcase f neatured bomber jackets with sewn patches, fuzzy skirts and gingham print dresses for the girls, and kilts, oversized jeans and camo print pants for the boys, all while donning enormous black and tan boots. The headpieces by Hizume looked like dreadlock wigs from afar, but turned out to be textile braids when looked at closely. The collection was clearly tuned into what alternative kids in Harajuku and Amemura prefer, and reiterates the brand as a local favorite.

DAY 6 – SEPTEMBER 5TH 2026

Tokyo Fashion Awards

As it’s the case on each spring-summer season of Tokyo Fashion Week, the winners of Tokyo Fashion Awards were announced during a press conference. For menswear: Ciota, Good People Good Stitching Good Product, Midorikawa and Orimi, for womenswear: Poolde, Gurtwein, Ohrohee and Takemaru. These eight brands were selected not only due to their undeniable level of quality and craftsmanship, but also because they have the highest potential to succeed in global markets. The recipients will have a dedicated showroom in Seoul in November, runway shows and a showroom in Paris in March next year, and a mentorship program for a year to help them reach the right audiences across the world. If you want to know the next Japanese brands to hit it big globally, by all means keep an eye on them.

Fashion Prize of Tokyo

Design duo Tanaka were the winners of this year’s Fashion Prize of Tokyo. This announcement had a special touch to it, as rapper Shing02 (who is a close friend of the brand) held a small performance while models wearing their latest creations stood on the stage, making the event feel like a reunion of those who have stuck together through the difficult journey of being an artist. As a brand that is based in New York, Tanaka already has an international audience and has proven their ability to execute pieces inspired in classic Western patterns in the finest Japanese denim, and with the two runway shows in Paris that they will hold with the support of this award, it is only expected their global reach and positioning will increase as deserved.

SODUK – “0018” LOVE

Closing this season of Tokyo Fashion Week, Tsukasa Kudo’s brand presented a showcase that, as colorful and youthful as it was, it had a nostalgic feeling to it. With the live performance of singer songwriter Ayano Kaneko as the soundtrack to which models strut down the runway, the collection included tie-dyed denim, jeans reworked with patches and embroidery that looked homemade in the best possible meaning of the word, as well as lashing tartan and stripe prints. Two of the most outstanding pieces were a vest made of thousands of tiny colorful plastic hoops that acted as a harness over a simple white printed t-shirt, and a piece that can only be described as a chimera between a black jacket, a light purple shirt and a striped necktie.

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