All images in this article appear as a courtesy of the brands.
Special thanks to WSN (@whosnext.paris), Première Classe (@premiereclasse.paris), RUN (@runshow_paris) and ANDAM Fashion Awards (@andamfashionawards) for their collaboration in the creation of this article.
Agnoli
With their unique blend of tried and true weaving techniques and avant garde sensibilities for the first time at Première Classe, Agnoli offered a vision for womenswear that felt melancholic, contemporary, wearable and infused with an antique touch, all at once. The selection of pieces from their SS/27 collection IKARUS included oversized hooded sweaters and pants, bodysuits and long dresses, all made in intricate weaving that looks like moving artwork over the body. This first step into the global market marks Agnoli as one of the independent brands moving the conversation about creativity, sustainability and luxury fashion towards its future.
Guayaba Agria
A very visually pleasing brand, from its campaigns and fashion films to the way their pieces are displayed every time, Guayaba Agria can be described as what fairies wear when they come from the warmer side of the globe. For their Première Classe debut, the Colombian brand brought over a dreamy, light like a cloud concept that blends minimalist, high quality textiles in solid colors with experimental details like bows, skirts with suspended sections and tiny tops that add a touch of sensuality to an ethereal set. By taking delicate elements and putting them into a tropical context, Guayaba Agria creates their very own aesthetic universe and adds a new dimension to defy preconceptions about fashion coming from places other than the Global North, its landscapes and climates.
Demo
As a mainly menswear brand, Demo from Taiwan showcases a bold take on what clothing for men can be, outside of traditional ideas where delicate textiles, flowers, embroidery and an ample color palette aren’t what men are supposed to wear. Their SS/27 collection The Shape of Freedom is precisely a testament to this ethos of creating a style beyond barriers: beautifully embroidered pants and shirts in black and white paired with colorful silk scarves and crystal bead necklaces used as belts, along with nude-toned fishnet sleeveless tops encompassed a fresh, relaxed vibe that was easy to wear and very forward-thinking at the same time. Without a doubt, Demo was one of the most innovative brands in this edition of Première Classe and it will be fantastic to see what they come up with in the next season.
Pampa
Hailing from Perú and with a rich business acumen coming from their extensive experience in multiple international markets, Pampa is at the vanguard of the new Latin American luxury fashion movement that has become stronger in recent years. Alpaca wool is their main textile, and they explore it to its fullest potential, showing that this precious fabric can work for all sorts of climates and not only for the coldest seasons of the year. The knitted net tops in silver and gold with tiny corncobs as a small nod to one of the quintessential ingredients of Peruvian cuisine were one of the best pieces and proof of the relevance that Pampa has in the current global fashion conversation that feels local and thinks global.
Gomis
As part of the carefully curated selection of brands for RUN x Andam, a showroom inside of Première Classe dedicated to the most innovative up-and-coming talents, Marseille brand Gomis is a womenswear option that feels as comfortable and luxurious as it’s also sensual and very feminine. The collection displayed on this occasion had a very specific color palette of mostly pitch black and a variety of red beads forming intricate details, which in combination with sheer fabric panels and thicker textiles create pieces that are quite wearable in different contexts yet very elevated design wise. Gomis’ garments are very complex but can be seamlessly integrated in all sorts of wardrobes, giving women from all walks of life the possibility to wear couture on a daily basis.
Dean Lap Chan
Another brand with the RUN x Andam seal of approval, UK-based Hong Kong brand Dean Lap Chan showcased their unique take on textiles and threads, many of them developed inhouse to offer textures and colors that are rarely, if ever, seen on brands of the same segment. Making full use of unusual color pallets that end up making sense, with very little monochromes in comparison to current trends and oversized flowers stitched onto many of their pieces, Dean Lap Chan gives a very much needed colorful and fun twist among other darker labels in the same range. By manufacturing many of their own fabrics and adding them both in full garments and as part of other pieces, this brand has created a distinctive identity that gives them an edge early in their journey and will surely continue to evolve and refine in future presentations.
