All images on this article were taken by the author herself unless explicitly noted.
TELL THE TRUTH – Delilah
After their Milanese showcase, Tell The Truth presented Delilah once again, this time in the capital of fashion at the Place des Vosges, in a more relaxed environment that created a sharp contrast to the Virtual Tunnel presentation in the week prior. While the collection remained essentially the same (which makes sense as it’s not an easy feat to create and show two entirely different collections back to back), the styling in Paris made it more elevated, thus proving the brand’s versatility. Checkered prints, red leather and punk-inspired hair and make-up were the focal points for the countercultural aspect of the presentation, while silk tracksuits, sheer skirts with beautiful floral embroidery and heeled pumps made the whole set more sophisticated and softer, resulting in an interesting mix of soft and hard.
MARCEL OSTERTAG – Dancing Flowers
On his Parisian debut, veteran German designer Marcel Ostertag introduced us to a RTW collection with a high level of technical complexity in the form of embroidery, beading and fine stitching for contemporary women. With a color pallet full of bold choices like bright orange, all hues of green and butter yellow, the set felt like a breath of fresh air and a decided step into the maximalist wave we’ve started to see this season. With over a decade of experience under his belt, Marcel has proven once again he understands the female silhouette and can make clothes that keep a bold feeling to them, by presenting one of the most cohesive, coherent and, frankly, beautiful collections during this event in Hôtel des Maisons.
SUNGYI LEE
After a successful collaboration with Danny Reinke during Berlin Fashion Week last winter, South Korean designer Sungyi Lee presented her collection for the first time in Paris. Showcasing her now trademark textile experimentation results with a womenswear and menswear collection, her chosen hues for this occasion were almost all black and white, with a few exceptions of light greys and deep sapphire blues, and an abundance of shiny, textured and sheer fabrics that added a touch of whismy and lightness to a collection that was decidedly more formal and elegant. The two-pieces suits for men styled with sequin shirts and bomber jackets in satin gave an interesting twist to classic shapes, and fabrics where animal and houndstooth prints coexisted were once again proof of Sungyi’s ability to mix sources of inspiration that wouldn’t usually go together in a completely unexpected, yet refreshing manner.
MEL MAXI – Harlem2Paris
The go-to fashion creative for New York hip hop legends paid homage to the pioneers of streetwear with Harlem2Paris. Straying away from contemporary interpretations, Mel Maxi went back to the roots of this segment of clothing with oversized chinchilla coats, equally huge diamond necklaces and medals, leggings and hats that reminded us of legends like Lil’ Kim, who arguably created the blueprint for what female rappers would wear for decades after her debut. As one of the pillars of hip hop fashion, Mel Maxi has proven the importance that this subculture has in fashion has gone way beyond their famous representatives and is a staple and huge influence in how people dresses and think about clothing today.
LUCIE NEOUZE – Redpulse
After decades of living in China and being part of Rick Owens’ textile development team, French designer Lucie Neouze has taken her interpretation of East Asian aesthetics along with futuristic sensibilities to create a collection that felt dangerous, sexy and delicate, all at once. The runway show for Redpulse took place in what used to be Brigitte Bardot’s apartment until she passed away, and the breathtaking views of all Parisian landmarks (the Eiffel Tower, Sacre Coeur, the Tour de Montparnasse) from the terrace became the perfect background for a showcase where fiery red was the main hue throughout the pieces. Following her exploration of architectural structures and how they can translate into clothing, this time Lucie presented the same bold shapes in lighter silhouettes compared to previous collections, such as ripped, layered denim dresses, red and raw white dresses with removable tops, and black leather jackets with oversized shoulder pads. The star of the collection was, without a doubt, the sandals inspired in geisha’s geta shoes, reinterpreted with an extra high platform and red laces instead of black, as well as strategically placed cuts for a forward touch that fit the concept of the collection like a glove.
